For its latest calibre, Oris clearly wanted to go back to basics; to strip everything back to its essence. So it has decided to skeletonise the Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115, and do so in a major way.
Nothing is hidden, you can see the barrel at 12 o’clock and watch it tighten as the crown is wound. This stripped-back aesthetic extends to the bridges, which, if looked at under a loupe, are in their natural state – no varnish, no bevelling, chamfering or unnecessary decoration. You can even see the “worm gear” that operates its non-linear ten-day power reserve indicator.
In contrast to the futuristic dial, the 44mm case is inspired by an original pilot’s watch from 1938, though given a 21st-century update by being in titanium, complete with a knurled bezel motif inspired by jet engine turbine blades.
“It’s certainly not a conventional pilot’s watch. This is the first Oris pilot’s watch without any numerals on the dial,” says Oris’s senior product design engineer Lukas Bühlmann. “But the aviation DNA is still there in the details. We used titanium for the case, for example, because it’s very light. What really makes this a pilot’s watch
is its technical look.”
Other features include 100m water resistance, with the sapphire, domed on both sides, with double-sided an anti-reflective coating to go with that power reserve of 240 hours shown on the non-linear indicator at three o’clock. Taking two years in the making, it’s a bold, confident piece of watchmaking.
Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 £5,950.00 (metal bracelet); £5,600.00 (leather strap) www.oris.ch
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